Kitchen Garden Journal
- Published on Monday, August 01, 2011, 02:51
- Written by Tim Wilcox
I need to be frank with you. This time of year it is simply insane to be a farmer.
The tomatoes are heavy on the vine. The beans are begging to be picked. Orders are pouring in. The markets are incredibly busy and exhausting. Out in the field, the ragweed is as tall as a man. The crew is tired. The tractor is on strike.
There are 25 things on our weekly to-do list and 15 of them will still be there next week.
No, I’m lying. We stopped even writing a to-do list because it’s too depressing.
But I can’t worry about that. I have to put the blinders on, start prepping land and planting all the fall crops. For me, it’s basically springtime all over again. Plant the spinach, plant the beets, plant the turnips. Never mind that it’s 100 degrees and they probably won’t even germinate.
I wake up in a panic at 3 a.m. with visions of our neighbors’ gorgeous, weed-free fields of corn and squash and wonder why I even bother.
But let’s be real here. This feeling only lasts about 6 weeks all year. And this is probably the least stressful summer I’ve had as a farmer. But this time of year on the farm is kind of like the opposite of sex and pizza.
Even when it’s good, it’s still pretty bad.
- Published on Monday, July 25, 2011, 02:34
- Written by Tim Wilcox
The heat wave brought some intense hot and dry weather to the valley last week. While it certainly stressed out a lot of plants and farmers alike, it was the perfect opportunity to get our garlic and a lot of our onions out of the field.
Due to the cold, wet spring we had—which seems like a distant memory now—the garlic harvest started a week later than usual, around the second week of July. The hot, dry conditions that ensued were perfect for harvesting garlic. If it’s wet and rainy during the harvest, the garlic might not dry properly. That was definitely not the case this year, and after a couple of weeks hanging in the loft, the garlic is good and dry and we’re now bringing cured garlic to markets. Check out last year's garlic harvest post for some arty work shots.
After we missed the promised rain last Monday, I saw my chance to field-cure some onions and shallots. So we started windrowing them on Tuesday (where we lay them out in the sun in rows) and by the end of the week they were ready to bring inside. We got to use the onion boxes that we made back in March, which are copies of boxes used on this and many other Valley farms back in the old days. (The one that Alissa & Brian are modeling in this photo is an original one that we found in the barn here. The new ones are visible behind.)
Now the barn is filling up: garlic in all the rafters and onions all over the floor in the loft. Now we just need to sell some and quick, so we can stop worrying about the loft collapsing! Although we hopefully will still have some to sell during the winter time.
Some of our favorite garlic and onion recipes can be found in The Vegetable Pages, like spaghetti with aglio, olio and pepperoncino, Greek salad, and green beans with red onion & vinaigrette. We'll be demonstrating how to make french fries with aioli at this year's Garlic & Arts Festival, Saturday, October 1 in Orange, MA.
The heat is also pushing along our summer crops and we’re excited to start harvesting some new things. Tiny Padron peppers are a popular snack in Spain just tossed with olive oil and pan roasted or grilled. Once in a while you get a hot one, so watch out! (Martha likes them.)
We’re also psyched about our artichokes coming in. They look great and the flavor is so amazing. So different from the week-old ones we get from California. Here's a link to how to trim an artichoke for cooking. Now we need to get our own page on artichokes up!
And tomatoes are really starting to come in now so stay tuned….
- Published on Monday, July 18, 2011, 02:33
- Written by Caroline Pam
Our kids love to eat vegetables - but no thanks to us. Here's the awful truth: we toil away all day producing beautiful vegetables and then come home for a family dinner of pizza or crackers and cheese with salami and fruit. We enjoy lovely farm lunches chock full of fresh veggies with our crew everyday but we're often too tired to cook anything serious at the end of a long day.
Thankfully, we've never had to worry that Lily and Oliver weren't eating enough veggies because they love Celia and Barbara's soup. For two years Celia Riahi and Barbara Audley have been taking care of our children at their lovely Waldorf-inspired home day care in Amherst, The Cottage Garden. I remember marveling the first time I witnessed my son and daughter sitting around a teeny table with six of their friends happily shoveling spoonfuls of thick green soup into their mouths. Some days it's orange soup, sometimes with Israeli couscous or barley stirred in. Either way, the kids gobble it up and we feel like virtuous parents.
Celia and Barbara take the summer off and the kids just started camp at Amherst Montessori, so we started freaking out when we realized we'd have to start packing their lunch. We begged Celia and Barbara for the magic soup recipe and because it's been such a life saver for us we thought we'd share it with you.
- Rapunzel vegan soup bouillon (or just water)
- Olive oil
- Onions, 4 medium or 2 large
- Garlic to taste
- Potatoes 5 lbs
- Carrots 3 lbs
This is the base for both green and orange soup variations. Follow this method but add the ingredients below for either green or orange soup, depending on which one you're making.
Saute the onions and garlic in olive oil in a 5 quart saute pan until soft and translucent. Peel, chop and wash all the veggies. Boil 8 cups water and dissolve 4 cubes in it and set aside. When the onions are done add the soup boullion or water and add cut veggies. Add water to cover and simmer on low until everything is soft. Puree with an immersion blender. It should be thick but add water as necessary to blend. Put in containers to freeze until needed.
To serve, thaw, heat and add a bit of water if needed. Cook a grain separately and add to the soup so it is sort of a thick veggie sauce with a grain - Israeli couscous, barley, quinoa, brown rice or even a small pasta shapes work well. Do not blend the grain, just stir it in. Be sure to leave the soup smooth but thick like a veggie sauce. Add grated cheese on top or serve with some cheese on the side. Serve with carrot sticks and fruit for a great lunch.
- The Base as above
- Sweet potatoes, 3 large
- Large Butternut squash, bake separately and add before blending
- Optional: 2 apples
- The Base as above
- 2 bunches of either: spinach or kale
- 1 bunch cilantro
- Cumin to taste, salt to taste
- Optional: mustard greens, chard, bok choy, lentils
Note: Celia never adds tomatoes, mushrooms or celery to the children’s soup.
- Published on Sunday, July 10, 2011, 06:10
- Written by Tim Wilcox
I am an amateur wild mushroom hunter. These days I have little if any spare time for wandering around in the woods in the summertime looking for mushrooms. So my mushroom hunting is mostly confined to the driver’s seat of my car, scanning the landscape for any protruding irregularities.
Last Friday—remember that warm, drizzly, mushroomy day?—I spotted a big score of oyster mushrooms growing out of a tree by the side of the road in the center of Hadley. This is just the kind of windfall that automotive mushroom hunting relies on, and I just about had an accident as I made my abrupt, rubbernecking U-turn.
That tree yielded about 5 pounds of perfectly fresh, pristine mushrooms. When I got them home I immediately tore up a few into some hot oil and had mushrooms on toast, which is, in my opinion, the best way to savor fresh mushrooms. (Recipe below.)
Emboldened by my good luck with the oysters, I got the whole family in the car on Saturday and drove out to my chanterelle spot. It seemed the perfect day to go out looking for chanterelles: month of July, after a rain, warm day. Check, check, check.
The spot was “given” to me by our friend Tony, who used to be the chef at Green Street Café, when he moved away from the valley. Tony, a fellow-amateur mushroom collector, came across the patch of chanterelles when he, in turn, was driving past them in his car and spotted blotches of bright fluorescent carmine dotting a mossy swath of roadside in the forested outer reaches of Northampton.
It’s a bit of a drive to get out to the spot, but we were just in time. They seem to have emerged that day and were in perfect condition. No slugs, not oversaturated by heavy rain, just perfect, tiny, tight little buttons of fungus emanating their heady chanterelle perfume.
Now that I’m stocked up, I can cook all of those amazing simple preparations that highlight the essential flavors and textures of these mushrooms. There are a few rules for cooking mushrooms: 1.) keep it simple, 2.) use plenty of fat, and 3.) like Julia Child always said, “don’t crowd the pan.”
Mushrooms on toast. Mushrooms with garlic and parsley on pasta. Mushrooms in cream on pasta (sometimes with fresh peas also). Mushroom and onion omelet with Gruyere. Those are really the only ways I ever cook wild mushrooms. All of these recipes are based on the simple technique of sautéing.
If you are not a mushroom hunter, your best bet for local wild mushrooms is to find Paul Lagreze of New England Wild Edibles at the Tuesday Market in Northampton or the Greenfield Farmers Market on Saturdays. Get there early, of course, for the choicest specimens.
- Published on Sunday, July 10, 2011, 05:45
- Written by Tim Wilcox
Cooking Oil (olive or other)
Garlic or shallots or cipollini onions, usually not more than one of those
Ham, bacon or pancetta, optional
White wine, sherry, Port or Madeira, optional
Heat the oil and mushrooms in a wide, heavy skillet over medium high heat. The mushrooms should all fit in the pan in a single layer with a bit of breathing room between them. (Otherwise, when the mushrooms start to heat up and release moisture, they will steam each other rather than brown. If you have a lot of mushrooms to do, work in batches.) Sometimes I add some bacon as well (like 2 slices, max, diced pretty small), for that extra umami kick. Keep it moving but refrain from stirring constantly.
When the mushrooms have taken on some color and are about halfway through cooking, it’s time to add the garlic or shallot or onion and a nice knob of butter. I also usually salt and pepper them at this point. Keep sautéing them until the alliums are golden and caramelized and starting to stick to the pan. (If you had added the butter and garlic in the beginning, they would be too burned by the end.)
Now it’s time to add the wine. Stir until completely evaporated. Your pan will look greasy again like it did before.
Just before turning off the heat add the minced parsley, not too much. If you want to turn this into a cream sauce, add the cream now, bring to a simmer and cook about 5 minutes longer.
Now you can serve it with the starch of your choice. I like toasted white artisan style bread or fresh egg pasta like homemade tagliatelle. (I use the packaged Bionaturae brand pappardelle when I feel lazy.)
- Published on Sunday, July 03, 2011, 07:42
- Written by Tim Wilcox
Happy 4th of July to all of our readers and eaters out there! I'm taking a week off from writing because I'm off to the farm to pick garlic, onions, cilantro, etc. and bring them to my friend Neftali's to make salsas in anticipation of the pig roast he's throwing tomorrow. I spent the morning making up a fresh batch of masa dough from our own corn for tortillas that I'll make tomorrow. Nothing beats a fresh tortilla for scooping up a hot dripping piece of roasted pig.
So happy 4th to all of you and enjoy whatever foods you are enjoying this weekend! On this occasion I am reminded of how awesome this country that we live in is. No other place in the world is as welcoming to the people and foods of other cultures. With each new generation, more and more different types of flavors are added to the pantheon of what we consider to be "our" food. We combine the best of them with the best of what had come before and a new "local" or regional cuisine is born.
So if you are celebrating with hot dogs and hamburgers, steamers and lobster, galumpkis, roast pork tacos, or even a salad of golden beets or some grilled cousa squash that you picked up from the farmers' market, I salute you.
- Published on Sunday, June 26, 2011, 11:30
- Written by Tim Wilcox
Cabbage is just now coming into season and because this year’s spring crop looks so nice, I thought I would share a few thoughts about it.
First of all, you ought to know that not all cabbage is created equal. There are different types of cabbage for every purpose, and unfortunately, many people’s low opinion of this awesome vegetable is probably due to the fact that people use the wrong kind of cabbage for all the wrong reasons.
Our spring cabbage—we grow a variety called Tendersweet and I assure you it is both—is meant to be eaten when freshly picked. When cooked, it becomes very delicate and meltingly tender. (My mother in law makes stuffed cabbage with some frequency and swears by our Tendersweet.) But I think that it is really at its best when eaten raw.
In fact, cabbage itself is my favorite of all the members of its tribe (radishes, turnips, broccoli, etc) to eat raw.
But I wouldn’t eat just any cabbage raw. Our spring cabbage, because it’s meant to be eaten right after it’s picked, has traits that other types of cabbage can ill afford: a thin, tender leaf with a high water content. It’s very mild tasting; sweet, crisp and crunchy.
Cabbage grown for long-distance shipping or winter keeping, on the other hand, has thick leaves with low moisture. That’s why when you eat most cabbage raw it has a squeaky, rubbery texture and a funky, sulfurous flavor. Not the kind of thing you want to make into slaw and serve with burgers at a 4th of July cookout.
In other words, our cabbage is the heirloom tomato of cabbages. It would simply not endure rough treatment or long journeys but it has a flavor that is truly wonderful and unique.
So, how do I love to enjoy raw cabbage in the summertime? Let me count the ways!
My classic coleslaw, for one. I wrote up the recipe last year and published it on our site and got more feedback on that than any other recipe. Another perennial favorite is an Asian flavored slaw with roasted peanuts and herbs like cilantro, mint and Thai basil in a fish sauce-sugar-lime dressing. SO GOOD!
A German-inflected slaw with a mustard vinaigrette and caraway seeds is another alternative to the classic. And easiest of all, when I was in Italy in the summer I was often served thinly sliced cabbage (they call this variety “cappuccio”) simply dressed with olive oil, wine vinegar, salt and pepper as the salad course at pranzo, the main meal of the day.
- Published on Sunday, June 26, 2011, 11:24
- Written by Tim Wilcox
(Pictured in top of frame)
These days I am really loving vegetable dishes that are part-salad and part-pickle. Salads made with sturdy vegetables like cabbage or cucumbers (unlike lettuce or field greens) actually improve by marinating in the fridge for a day or two. So if you don’t feel like eating it all right away it doesn’t go to waste.
½ head of Tendersweet cabbage, very thinly sliced, preferably on a mandoline slicer
1 tsp salt
1 tsp sugar
Powdered red chile to taste (I like to use about 1 Tbsp Korean hot pepper powder. It is made from seeded red chili peppers and is intensely flavored without being too hot. It also gives a nice red color. Hungarian hot paprika would make a good substitute.)
Juice of 1 lime
1 tsp white, rice or sugar cane vinegar, or more to taste
Silce the cabbage into a large bowl. Add salt and sugar and massage into the cabbage with your hand. Add the rest of the ingredients, mix and serve. It is best to wait at least 30 minutes for the cabbage to go fully limp and absorb the flavors. It can also be made a few days in advance also. Feel free to add any other ingredients you want like cilantro, onion, garlic, scallion, fresh chiles, etc.